In my years of chowing down on barbecue, I’ve never had any as good as two servings I had today. The Pink Ladies had the most melt-in-your-mouth Berkshire shoulder, the sort of experience to make you shout hallelujah. Then I zeroed in on the booth of the Estonian barbecuers from Turi and I’ll tell you that between the flight attendants and the firefighters, I’m glad I didn’t have to choose. The Estonians whole hog was robust and meaty and moist through and through. OK, now I’m hungry again and they’re leaving town. I’ll let Roland Ounapuu, president of the Estonian Barbecue Association tell it.